Gran Paradisio

IMG_2822Travelling south by train I received a phone call from Tom at Jagged Globe to say that Mont Blanc, the highest mountain in Europe,had been closed to climbers due to the conditions created by the extreme hot weather. My heart sank as my target for the past 6 months had been taken away from me. Little was I to know that just over one week later I would be experiencing an almighty high on the summit of Gran Paradisio, the highest mountain in Italy. As usual the accommodation in Chamonix was excellent providing the best view of the Mont Blanc Massif (just to add poison to the wound). The first three days focused on becoming climatised and recapping the skills of using crampons and ice axe. All this under the excellent eye of our leader ‘Lorrie’, a very experienced mountaineer who was exceptional in every way. With only two of us on the week we had personal tuition and guidance from a very skilled and competent leader. We undertook the 4 hour walk to our first refuge – Albert Premier. One of the largest huts in the Alps next to the stunning Le Tour Glacier with some spectacular crevasses and seracs. IMG_2706

This was an ideal spot to test out the crampons and practice ice axe skills before travelling the next day up the glacier to the peaks of Aiguille du Tour. The conditions were perfect with some fresh snow and solid ice. the views across to Switzerland amazing. The trek to our next refuge Cabane du Trient was made more challenging with strong winds.IMG_2271

These brought in heavy rain overnight and made the trek back to Le Tour, the following morning, a true expedition warm up for the ascent of Gran Paradisio in the days ahead.

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Gran Paradiso is located in the Valsavarenche south of the mont blanc tunnel in Italy. we trekked to the Refuge Chabod to prepare for the ascent of the mountain. an excellent refuge hut with great service and a buzzing atmosphere. Ideal preparation as we looked up to the Glacier de Laueciau and the route we would take to the summit. An early start meant climbers walking with head torches on.  Our group set off at 7.00am with a calm but cold morning awaiting us. The climb passed widening crevasses and it wasn’t long before we were at the back of a long group plodding a slow route upwards.IMG_2834

Four hours later reaching the col the wind speed was 50 mph with the sun bearing down making it difficult to see a way forward. Bearing NE from the col we came within site of the summit, but first we had to negotiate the ladders in place over the widening crevasse underneath the summit ridge. IMG_2289Providing a new exhilarating experience as we reached the rocky outcrops that led the way to the top.  Still with crampons on we started negotiating the way up, first to the tower that stood over the valley with fantastic views over the italian alps, then along the narrow ridge with fixed ropes to the true summit where the statue of Madonna stood proud. With views to Mont Blanc and Monta Rosa we took in the amazing achievement before realising the hardest journey was to get back down. A round trip over nearly 7 hours saw us back at the refuge and a glorious end to P1010642

the week. in many ways I was glad that Mont Blanc had not been accessible as climbing Gran Paradisio was a fine alternative made even better by a super guide. Another great week with Jagged Globe.

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